Surfing 'Old Skool'
About the time 'Big Mama Olivia' was blogging about surfing, I came across a nice coffee table book at a 'thrift store' aka 'charity shop'...Titled 'Maverick's' by Matt Warshaw. Some really nice shots of big waves in California near Half Moon Bay.
Gotta love thrift stores, most of my library has come from them, or yard sales and flea markets.
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These waves are 3 to 4 times the size of anything I've ever dealt with...
Lot's of good background on the early days of surfing, great pics.
I've only dabbled in surfing over the years, been awhile since I've been in the soup...
Last surfing experience I had was in a kayak at Seaside beach on Monterey Bay a few years ago. The waves were bigger than usual and a little unpredictable. I was in a bodged together kayak made from an old open Klepper fibreglas boat with a polyethylene river kayak top bolted and duct taped to the top of the Klepper...(wish I'd taken pics of this 'rig'...maybe I did, I'll have to look...) Someday I'd like to take a stab at it again with a proper sea kayak or Surfski.
Maybe tomorrow will be 'surfin' some snow....will post pics if that happens.
Even if I could surf Mavericks is one of many death waves I'd never go near . . . any place that can take out Mark Foo has gotta be ultra heavy, cool post buddy.
ReplyDeleteYeah, I learned a long time ago that no matter how good a swimmer, or how long you can hold your breath...water has the power to take you. After nearly drowning in local rivers I scaled back my 'fearless-factor' considerably. In the account of Foo's death in the book, they surmise he was held down by getting wrapped up in rocks and/or plants. Just a small piece of his board was attached to the leash when they recovered him.An ex-navy History professor of mine talked about gale force Atlantic waves bending steel deck plates several inches thick on the aircraft carrier he was on. Some powerful stuff going on out there...
ReplyDeleteWow that's a great bargain.
ReplyDeleteHey Guys you should if you had don't : watch riding giants.
Yeah sometimes i used to post ha ha ha but you forget the major thing...... tada, i lived near the mediteranean sea....our last tsunami during the 50's/60's was only big as 8 feet ha ha ha ha but btw i'm a mini waves surfer, i had enought to be in perdition on the water lol !!!!
Have a good week bold fellows :D
To paraphrase the guys at Sideburn, 'It's not what you surf, but how you surf it!'. Have a good week yourself!
ReplyDeleteJerry Lopez has said that the best surferis the one who has the more fun
ReplyDelete